Last Archive Back to Fantasy Cartography
RE: [cc2-l] Sheets vs.Layers
Date: 10/18/2000 5:06:42 AM Central Standard Time
From: Simon Rogers
CC2 treats sheets almost like seperate drawings. In a CC2 file if there is more than one sheet, after the COMMON sheet, the next sheet will be marked with a break. I believe that this break points to the next sheet in the drawing. This means that when you hide a sheet there is almost no readraw overhead. CC2 examines each entity on visible sheets in turn to see whether they are hidden or not and then displays them or skips them. Each hidden entity takes as long to skip as an entire sheet. However, sheets force entities to be displayed in a certain order, because entire sheets are listed consecutively. Entities on on layers can appear in any order. The FRONT command causes entities to change their sheet, which is why we added the SFRONT command to Character Arist (front on current sheet)
The original metaphor for layers (overlying transparent overlays) actually applies better to sheets. An entities "layer" is an invisible property of an entity that can affect the display and editing status of that entity. Sheets tend to be used infrequently, and are not as robust as layers. In addition, to protect "sheet unaware" users, when you first open a drawing, you will always be drawing on the COMMON sheet. In v7, there will be a current sheet indicator like the LAYER one, so this won't be necessary.
RE: [cc2-l] Quick Questions
Date: 10/18/2000 6:31:00 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
You can Clone the symbols, giving it a new name when you do the clone. Edit menu >> Clone Symbol. Character Artist let's you actually rename the symbol.
A word of caution on naming symbols. CC2 only recognizes the first symbol definition placed in a map with a particular name. Let's say you had 10 swamp symbols & they were all just named Swamp. If you placed each symbol in the map, only the first swamp symbol would ever show up, because it's definition is the one CC2 will use. So, when renaming, give the symbols a slightly different name - like swamp1 or use your initials at the beginning of the symbol.
Re: [cc2-l] Help with a CC2 Map , IE Spliting it up to smaller maps.
Date: 10/22/2000 3:58:51 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>i have a large CC2 map and I need it split up into 9 smaller maps. But I have no idea I have all ready spent hours trying to do it with no go. can anyone either do it for me of help?
* Draw the splits onto your map (a 3x3 grid, or however you wish to do it)
* Use "Save As" nine times, changing the file name each time to suit the split you wish to use.
* Within one of these "split maps", delete all entities (symbols etc.) that are not wholly or partially contained within the split you wish to create. Since it is likely that you'll want to change symbol scale for the new map, you'll probably end up deleting all symbols eventually - but it's a good idea to keep them in for now, for reference.
* Use "Break" to cut out the portions of the remaining entities that cross outside the split box. Either use modifiers ("Intersection" is probably the best bet here), or just cut the offending piece out anyhow, and use "Trim To Entity" to knock it back into your split box. Do one break at a time, regardless of whether the particular entity overlaps more than once. After each break/trim, use "Edit" and check "Closed". This way, you can keep the entity you're working on a polygon without having to draw connecting pieces in later, and then combining or multipolying them to get back to a single entity.
* Repeat until all that remains is wholly within the split box.
* Save, and add details at will.
* Repeat for the next split box....
RE: [cc2-l] New User Questions
Date: 10/22/2000 5:49:12 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
Split your Paths or Polys at ENDPOINTS then fractalize what you want. You can recombine the Paths back into Polys by using CMB.
To be able to just fractalize a small portion of the path, just zoom in & SPLIT the path above & below where you want to fractalize., then use CMB to make them back into paths.
> From: Robin Lim
> First of all, can you protect certain node and/or line segments from fractalization? It would be particularly convenient to protect the lines that run up to the map edge.
>
> Secondly, can I only fractalize particular line segments? Often, I'll see some areas of a particular mass which need more fractalization than other sections.>
RE: [cc2-l] Help with a CC2 Map , IE Splitting it up to smaller maps.
Date: 10/22/2000 7:42:40 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
Here are some more detailed directions:
Following is a basic outline of how to take a section from a larger map to make a smaller map.
1) Draw a box around the area you want to appear on the smaller map, use an unusual color like bright green. Save this map under a different file name. Thaw all & Show all layers unless you specifically don't want them included
2) Measure the dimensions of the box using info/distance - this indicates the approximate the size of the template you will need.
3) Use Edit > Clipboard > Copy or CTRL-C to select all objects that are within the green box area - you will get any objects that are within the box but also some objects that extend beyond the box (this is normal).
4) Choose a point near the middle of the green box for the center of your new map or just right click to accept (0,0).5) Load the smaller template as the template (see #2 above for the size)
(File >> Select Template).
6) Start a new map based on that template (File >> New). Delete the stuff from this map.
7) Paste from clipboard or CTRL-V to place the copy, click near the center of the new map. If you can't see anything or if it looks off center, use Zoom Extends
8) Bring the green box to the front if necessary. (Front >> by color >> pick the bright green color)
9) Change the fill style of everything to Hollow. Change the Splines & Smooth Polys to Paths & Polys (CTS > All > Do It).
9) Break &/or Trim all the entities to the green box edge.
10) Change the green box to black or make a nice border for it.
RE: [cc2-l] Dungeon Doors Problem
Date: 10/24/2000 7:28:32 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
The commands were removed from the menus because these features were added into the actual symbols & are redundant. Please use the Wall Features Cutting catalog to achieve this.
> From: Jason Winter [mailto:Alarian@uswest.net]
> There seems to be a problem with DD2 all of a sudden. I went to add a 'Breaking Door" and when I go up to my "Dungeon" menu, there seems to be tons of options missing. The only options I have are Lock Symbol Angle, Trims, Wall, wallbreak center, wallbreak end, Add definition and Order Dungeon Layers. I haven't used the Dungeon Menu in quite a while, but I know there used to be more options than that. >
Re: [cc2-l] A basic city tutorial...
Date: 10/27/2000 7:21:47 AM Central Standard Time
From: Rob Sanders
> 1. How do you build city walls like those one the CC2 Baldur's Gate map?
This is easy and complicated at the same time :-)
1. Draw a path in the shape you want your wall.
2. Change this path's width to the width you want your wall to be
3. Change the color to 14 (the dark gray on the color bar)
4. Copy this path from 0,0 to 0,0 (creates a duplicate on top of it)
5. Choose change color, then right-click to bring up the selection menu, then click "Prior" - this selects the path you just copied. Change the color to 14 (the light gray on the color bar)
6. Choose change line width, then select "Prior" again, and change the line width to 2 or 3 less than the width of your wall (depending on your wall's width, you may need to play with this number).
7. Copy both paths from 0,0 to 0,0 (creates 2 duplicates)
8. Choose change fill style, then select "Prior," then change the fill style to hollow
9. Choose change color, then select "Prior," then change the color to black
Voila! City walls. It may take you a while to get the hang of using Prior, but after a couple of times it's second nature.
RE: [cc2-l] how to get bitmaps to scale properly
Date: 10/29/2000 7:44:20 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
This is how I get the scale right when inserting bitmaps. This method was developed after much trial & error & continues to be the most accurate - especially if the bitmap has a grid on it. The following example is based on how I did the Greyhawk Wall Map when traced it in CC2.
Insert the bitmap using Insert >>Insert Picture (use the Scale to just fit inside option)
Measure the bitmaps hexes, squares or any known distance (a scale bar or the distance between 2 cities)
Scale the bitmap so that it's hexes, squares or known distance equal the correct amount. (This is where the accuracy comes from) For example - if you know the bitmap's hex represents 30 mile & you measure 12.3 miles using Distance, then you would need to Scale >> chose the bitmap & enter 30/12.3 to get the correct amount. Now measure again just to make sure it's right.
Now you have the map the correct size but you may notice that the hexes or squares do not match up all across the map! I found that there is an inherent drift to bitmaps, maybe the paper stretches, maybe we are not precise when we scan - whatever - it's there! You'll notice that the map's hexes line up in certain parts but tend to drift off at the edges.
In order to solve this problem for tracing the coastlines & filling the hexes I developed the "dragging method". You have to actually drag the bitmap around. This makes sense! If each CC2 hex is correct - then the map will be accurate. Once you have determined that the bitmap hexes are scaled correctly, you'll see that the Hex Grid overlay (symbol fill or Add hex grid) will match certain parts of the map.
Start in the corner of your map & line up the bitmap with the overlay hexes (by dragging the bitmap), then tracing the coastline & land masses as long as they line up. When they started to drift, drag the bitmap again to line up with the overlay hexes & continue in this fashion until all of the coastline & land forms are drawn.
The main thing to remember is that the hexes must match - if the same information is in each hex your map will be accurate regardless of how the overlay looks on the bitmap. If you just trace the coastline from the bitmap - the map will be off - the coastal cities can be out by a whole hex or more! I know it sounds confusing - but really it is not - it just takes a little patience.
A good way to get the hexes to align is to use a bright color (#1), zoom into a junction & draw a path that goes off the map (past the bitmap). Zoom back in & choose Drag along with the Endpoint modifier on that path you just drew, then align the Endpoint with the correct spot on the Hex overlay.
Re: [cc2-l] How do I...
Date: 11/6/2000 2:09:27 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>...make a smaller map out of a larger one.
To create the smaller map, you have to start with the entire continent in order to break it up to fit the new desired size. Copying and/or using part insertion is one way, but I find the procedure below easier to manage:
* Use File -> Save As to save your map under a different file name (one pertinent to the region you wish to use)
* Draw a hollow rectangle around the area you wish to keep
* Erase everything that is not wholly or partly contained within that rectangle
* For each polygon (continent, contours, forest, etc. etc. etc.):
* Use BREAK to break the polygon across one overlap with the rectangle's border. Either use the INTERSECTION modifier to get the break cleanly aligned with the rectangle, or perform the break roughly and then use TRIM TO ENTITY to clean it up afterwards.
* Use the EDIT command, select the broken polygon (which is now a path), and check the "Closed" box
* Repeat for each overlap
(Using the EDIT/Closed procedure after each break saves time adding paths/lines, and combining or multipolying the whole mess back together later)
(If a polygon doesn't break along a horizontal or vertical line (e.g., it actually goes around a corner or two), it is easier to use EDIT/Closed, and then Insert Node to add in the points needed to match the corner)
* Re-do symbols etc. as required
* You may need to re-scale some fill styles (e.g., swamp fills). The easiest way to do this is to go to the Fill Style dialog box (click on the FS: part of the info bar), find the fill style, and then place multipliers next to the four Spacing and Scale parameters appropriate to
the new map's size. A good starting point for this is to consider the
size of the new map in relation to the old - if the new map is 1/4 the
size of the old, simply type "*0.25" next to each of the four
parameters.
Re: [cc2-l] How do I...
Date: 11/6/2000 3:37:29 PM Central Standard Time
From: Stéphane Tanguay
From Linda K.
Following is a basic outline of how to take a section from a larger map to make a smaller map.
1) Draw a box around the area you want to appear on the smaller map, use an unusual color like bright green. Save this map under a different file name. Thaw all & Show all layers unless you specifically don't want them included
2) Measure the dimensions of the box using info/distance - this indicates the approximate the size of the template you will need.
3) Use Edit > Clipboard > Copy or CTRL-C to select all objects that are within the green box area - you will get any objects that are within the box but also some objects that extend beyond the box (this is normal).
4) Choose a point near the middle of the green box for the center of your new map or just right click to accept (0,0).
5) Load the smaller template as the template (see #2 above for the size) (File >> Select Template).
6) Start a new map based on that template (File >> New). Delete the stuff from this map.
7) Paste from clipboard or CTRL-V to place the copy, click near the center of the new map. If you can't see anything or if it looks off center, use Zoom Extends
8) Bring the green box to the front if necessary. (Front >> by color >> pick the bright green color)
9) Change the fill style of everything to Hollow. Change the Splines & Smooth Polys to Paths & Polys (CTS > All > Do It).
9) Break &/or Trim all the entities to the green box edge.
10) Change the green box to black or make a nice border for it.
RE: [cc2-l] Help with Symbol Creation
Date: 11/17/2000 1:55:22 AM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
Basically - how I make a symbol:
1) Draw the intended symbol & outline applicable parts that need a black outline.
2) Drag the intended symbol - if you watch it while dragging, you will see where an additional outline needs to be added
3) Add the extra outline & drag again
You need an uneven number of stacked entities. For example - draw a circle, drag it. You can see the circle. Outline the circle & drag - you can't see it. Copy the black outline from 0,0 to 0,0 & drag - now you can see the circle. Try this with an arc that covers only half of the circle & notice what happens.
Sometimes you need to compensate in the symbol for partially covered entities - a whole outline leave parts of the symbol with an even number of entities like the arc/circle example above. The solution to this is to only make an outline on the necessary part.
Character Artist adds a lot of really good symbol utilities & an in depth tutorial. I would recommend it if you think you'll be making symbols.
RE: [cc2-l] Color Printer Profiles
Date: 11/18/2000 5:32:31 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
When printing to color printers, the best thing you can do is install the Color Profile for your monitor. This will help get you more accurate printed colors. Color Profile extensions are ICC or ICM. If you do a Find File & Folders & you don't find these extensions, contact your Monitor manufacturer (or the place you got your computer) & see if they have the Color Profile available. I've just installed mine from gateway & it makes a HUGE difference in how the colors print. To get the printer to use the Color Profile, access your printers folder (My Computer >> Printers), right click on your color printer & choose Properties. Now select the Color Management tab & you should have the option to Add a color profile. Locate the correct profile & click Add.
RE: [cc2-l] A Need of Volunteer Mappers and one brief off-topic
announcement and a CC2 query
Date: 11/20/2000 8:25:20 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
Make a catalog with the symbols you want to insert.
Open up the map with the counters & do Catalog Menu >> Rename & reorder - now rename the current symbols to the symbol name in the catalog you just made.
For example in the new catalog, you have tree1 - in the map you want to replace marker6 with tree1. Use Catalog Menu >> Rename & reorder, export to the text file & change the name of marker6 to tree1. Please be very careful, it is very easy to get this mixed up ;/ (I usually make a word file with a table that shows the original name & the new name for reference) When you are done, bring the text file back into the map file & save.
Repeat for every marker you want to replace & save the map.
To swap the symbols:
1. Load the file catalog file you made
2. Select Insert > Insert Part.
3. Select the map file (the file want to replace the symbols in).
4. Make sure that, in the dialog box, the scale is 1 and the rotation is
0.
(This assumes the marker symbols are the same size as the map symbols)
5. Type 0,0 and press ENTER at the "Insert at:" prompt.
6. Press the right button to complete the command.
7. Zoom Extends
7. Use File > Save As to save the drawing under a new name.
> From: Anna Dobritt [mailto:jdobritt@yahoo.com]
> And finally, a CC2 question. I made some temporary place markers for a map I'm working on. Is there a way to replace those markers with a regular symbol all at one time? I already tried looking in the help file for this, but could find nothing about it.>
RE: [cc2-l] CC2 Zoom Extents
Date: 11/22/2000 7:04:26 AM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
The answer was that there was an invalid entity in Brad's map. It's entity type is NAN (not an entity)
If this happens to anyone in the future, you can eliminate them by using the Zoom Out icon, then Erase All > NOT > Each & draw a box just around your map. Check the command line & you should see 1 entity selected. Erase it & then Zoom Extends.
> From: Brad Stiles [mailto:bstiles@bs.win.net]
> I seem to have messed up some setting in my map. Now, when I Zoom Extents, I don't see the whole map; there is still a good portion of it off the screen to the left. I have looked through the online help, and the manual, and nothing jumps out at me as a way to fix this. Can someone help?
RE: [cc2-l] Drawing Hexes
Date: 11/28/2000 1:38:04 AM Central Standard Time
From: Craig Brain
>I need to draw some 5 mile hexes with the point to the north (rather than the standard flat side to the north). How can I do this?
There are two ways to do this, depending on whether you want to have the grid as a fill style, or as a drawn grid.
From: Ian R Malcomson
For fill style, filch through the symbol fill styles available in your map. There should be one that reads "Default hex grid, vertical", or something similar. Use this fill style, or create a new fill style and copy all of the parameters from it over (just note them down and type them in, or use Ctrl-C to copy each individual element over). Next, draw something using the fill style, then quickly do a snap "Info menu - > Distance" to determine the hex scale (it should be 10 miles/hex). Now, in your to-be 5 mile vertical hex grid, place a multiplier next to the X and Y scale and spacing values equal to the desired scale divided by the current scale just measured. For example, if the hex scale is currently 10 miles, and we need a 5 mile grid, place "*0.5" next to each of the four values.
Using a drawn grid is a lot easier. Simply go: Draw menu -> Hex grid; change the hex alignment radio button to vertical; change the grid spacing to 5; press OK; place the grid as if you were drawing a rectangle.
Re: [cc2-l] Question about changing the color of a symbol fill
Date: 12/5/2000 4:33:08 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>I am having some difficulty in changing the color of a symbol fill (Fill Style Name: "Paving L Symbol", Symbol Name: "Paving L Fill") that I have included within a multipoly on my "Background (Floor 1)" layer. Basically, I am trying to follow along with the Dungeon Designer 2 instructions on page 53 of the manual. However, when I go to do the "Change Color" for the symbol fill nothing happens, and the symbol fill stays black.>
This is because the specific template you are using has a version of the Paving L Fill symbol that is specifically black, rather than "SymColour".
You can fix this by:
* Choose Symbol menu -> Edit Symbol
* Select he Paving L Symbol
* Click to place two corners of a window in which you will edit the symbol
* In this window (which now should display the Paving L Symbol), select Symbol menu -> Change To SymColour -> right click -> All -> right click -> Do It
* Close the symbol window by clicking on the "X" in its top left hand corner; answer "Yes" when prompted to keep the changes
The fill style should now change colour as the manual describes. To fix this so that the symbol is correct within the template, rather than the individual drawing being worked on, simply open the template in question as if it were a drawing (change the "Files of Type" to FCT), and follow the above procedure.
Re: [cc2-l] Bitmaps - CCD - Printing - Arghhhh!
Date: 12/6/2000 5:43:28 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>I've created a bitmap to use in a diorama piece (a pit with a ladder going down into darkness) which I quite pleased with, but I can't seem to get the damn thing to print properly! No matter what I do, CC2 tiles it. I've tried going into the bitmap fill styles and changing it to fill extents, I've tried to resize the image numerous times (120x120, 240x240 etc, etc) and nothing seems to work. Am I missing something? if so, what the hell am I doing wrong? Once, just once, I managed to get it to print a single image into the chosen panel, but when it printed, the image was off-centre. The WISIWYG image of the bitmap changes to reflect either Fill Extents or Tile, as does the print preview, but the hard copy - nada.
It sounds as if you're using the bitmap as a fill style, when you should really be inserting it as a picture. Try using Insert menu -> Picture, then selecting the bitmap file. Choose "Scale to fit just in side", press OK, then click to place the lower left hand corner of the image. To place the upper right corner, type: X,Y<enter> (the values you type will come up on the command line, to the bottom of your CC2 screen), where X is the pixel width, and Y is the pixel height, of the image. Once the picture is in, you can then scale it accordingly to suit your needs.
RE: [cc2-l] Weird Colors in Color Bar
Date: 12/9/2000 12:23:48 AM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
This is & always has been the "normal" CC2 color bar scheme :/ The good news is that in version 7 you can assign the colors you want in the order you want them :) Right now there isn't anything you can do except perhaps make some work arounds. One thing I do is make "mini" color bars that I insert into maps & then I simply choose the colors I want by using KEEP on those color bars - certainly not elegant but quite useful.
Another thing you can do is to use the Colortog MACRO. This is available at the Macro Archives. You need to define 2 colors in the Macro then you can toggle between them. You could make a whole new Icon Tool Bar with lots of 2 color toggles if you like.
> From: Steve Davies
> Can anyone explain how the colors in the Color Bar screen tool are selected? I just took a suggestion from someone on this list and moved my Color Bar to the top of the screen to get more choices
RE: [cc2-l] Help With New Features
Date: 12/9/2000 2:44:52 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
Cut - entities on the inside or outside is removed.
Select - all entities crossing the cut object will be split and the inside or outside will be marked. It can be selected by Prior for any of CC2's standard commands.
Copy - all entities on the inside will be copied and can be placed anywhere. You can use CTRL to scale or enter a number. All dimensions will keep there original value, but their size will be scaled (not the normal scale behavior).
As a cut frame you can use a box, a circle (both diameter and center + point) or a sample object. The sample object can be any simple closed object such as a (non-self-crossing) polygon, circle or ellipse.
To enable the CUT menu type CUTMENU <enter>, exit CC2 & restart CC2. Then check out the new menu.
Symbols >> Sort Symbols is where the Sort command lives.
The Cut and Select Commands do not work on Multipoly entities.
RE: [cc2-l] CC2: saving a part of a map
Date: 12/9/2000 3:02:05 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
WBS is the command you are looking for. Zoom into the section you want to copy, type WBS & draw a box around the area you want.
You can configure the JPG options by going to File Menu >> Conversion >>JPEG/PNG. If you choose Same as Clipboard you'll need to set your Clipboard options Edit Menu >> Clipboard >> Options
> From: Marti P [mailto:Maarit.Pelletier@tukkk.fi]
> I have a very large continent and I need to make a .jpeg out of a small section of it. I know it is possible to print any view, but is it possible to save any view instead of the whole thing?>
RE: [cc2-l] Re: [private] Where do If ind the ROOM and CORRIDOR commands?
Date: 12/9/2000 8:24:59 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
To do a clean install:
Backup or move any custom MNU or MAC files you want to save!!
1) Uninstall any CC2 product you have (Use Control panel>Add & Remove Programs).
2) Using Windows choose Start>Run & type in Regedit.
3) Make a backup copy (export) of the Registry.
4) Search the HKEY_CURRENT_USER>Software section for Evolution Computing Tab. If you find an Evolution Folder, 5lease delete it.
6) Reboot.
7) Disable any antivirus software you have running
10) Install CC2. Start CC2, save whatever file comes up. Close & exit.
11) Reboot
12) Disable any antivirus software you have running
13) Install DD2, CD2, CA & then CCD
11) Apply the version 6.038 patch to CC2.
12) Enable your antivirus.
This should correct any problems you have with running CC2.
RE: [cc2-l] Re: Tutorial for the beta CUT Commands?
Date: 12/13/2000 4:37:48 AM Central Standard Time
From: Simon Rogers
How hard do people find it to add detail to a chopped-out section of a map? A few suggestions:
1. Add an appropriate level of detail to coastlines and rivers using FRX. (For example, if the dimensions are about half the original map, use a depth of one) You may wish to use the DYNEDIT or INSNODE commands to add detail.
2. Resize all the symbols using Scale Symbols, again, choose a scale based on the relative dimensions of the maps.
3. Add extra details (the next scale down on rivers, roads, etc.)
4. Change the text height.
RE: [cc2-l] Ridges (again)
Date: 12/13/2000 4:45:52 AM Central Standard Time
From: Simon Rogers
> I copied the Ridge macro from the repository, but after experimenting with it a little, I can't seem to reproduce anything like the example previously mentioned. I have already had a look at new Escarpment function from the 6.038k update (which installed without any problems, by the way), but can't seem to create a ridge, I can make a symbol already within the map follow a spline with the command, but am unable to work out how to make an actual 'ridge'. Any ideas?
There are two ways to do this.
1. A long time ago I did a whole bunch of RIDGE macros that Linda might have that let you create a series of lines between two selected entities. They weren’t perfect but they did the job.
2. Use ESC.
i) Define a ridge symbol in the map which is a vertical line with the origin at the top.
ii) Use INFO>>DISTANCE to work out the gap you want between each ridge.
iii)Use ESC to add the ridges to the top edge of the cliff.
iv) EXPLODE by Prior to convert the ridge symbols into plain old lines.
v) Use Trim to Entity and select the lower edge of the cliff, then each line in turn.
There are various options that could be added to the ESC command to make this possible in future.
Re: [cc2-l] Question concerning walls.
Date: 1/10/2001 11:45:29 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
> I have another question. When I draw walls on a dungeon (or city) map, if I end the wall on a right angle, the corner doesn't meet properly. To see what I am talking about, refer to page 94 of the DD2 manual. Why does this happen? If I have the line meet at the same angle (along a straight line) then this does not happen, but that is certainly not intuitive. I would have to begin and end my line in the middle somewhere. This is most annoying. Is there something I am not doing correctly or something? BTW, I usually use the "Wall" button on the DD2 bar for convenience sake.>
The WALL icon starts drawing a path. If you need a wall that entirely encloses a dungeon (or room, or whatever you wish to achieve), you can go down a number of roads, two of which being:
1. Use the WALL icon as per usual. However, instead of placing the last point (to make the wall meet itself), end the command so that it leaves a gap. Now click on the EDIT icon, select the wall, and check the Closed box. Press OK. Your wall is now a closed polygon, rather than a path.
Advantages of this: The additional WALL icon functionality (e.g., changing the current layer automatically to WALLS) is retained.
Disadvantages: If you're already on the WALLS layer, it adds to the number of processes needed to get the wall drawn.
2. Instead of using the WALL icon, click on the POLYGON icon, and use that to draw the wall. Right-click to end the command prior to what would be the last "joining" point (the polygon will close itself across the gap you leave).
Advantages: Eliminates the need to use EDIT to close the wall after the fact.
Disadvantages: The additional functionality of the WALL icon is lost, so you'll need to do the layer changing etc. manually if you're not there already.
Re: [cc2-l] Question concerning walls.
Date: 1/11/2001 1:53:14 AM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>You also could just edit the mnu file and add a wall button which activates the polygon function instead of path, and then just get the best of both of the solutions you highlighted.>
True. You could edit dungeon.mnu to include a polygon wall icon pointing to WALLP, and copy the following into fcw32.mac:
MACRO WALLP
COLOR 0
FSTYLE Solid
LSTYLE Solid
GOLAYER WALLS
:2wall
POLY
ENDM
Re: [cc2-l] Text Outlining
Date: 1/17/2001 12:25:50 AM Central Standard Time
From: Scott C. Nolan
Check the manual, pp. 72-74. But in short:
1) Write text in black.
2) Copy to identical location.
3) Change Text Properties on copy to "Outline Only"
4) Change Color on copy to "White".
At 06:22 AM 1/17/2001 +0000, you wrote:
>How do I create the outlined text that i have seen on a few maps ?>
From: Ian R Malcomson
* Copy menu >> Copy To Layer
* Select the text you wish to outline and Do It
* Right-click to bring up the Layers dialog
* Select TEXT (OUTLINE) (or whatever - you can always hit the Add button and create a layer for your text outlines), then press OK
* Click on Change Text Properties icon
* Right-click, and select Prior
* Do It
* In the Text Properties dialog, check the Outline Only box (to the bottom left of the dialog), and press OK.
* Bring the original text entities to the front of the drawing (i.e., above the outline entities you've just created).
NOTE: Some fonts (particularly those free or might-as-well-be-free ones you get from the 'net or compilation CDs) don't work to well with the Outline Only style when the text is also Bold. If the outline text entities appear to be offset from the original entities, try making all of the offending text (original and outline alike) not-Bold. If that doesn't work, try using a different font....
To tart up outlines a bit (bloody useful for bringing text out from mountains, forests, etc. so the symbols don't obscure it):
(Assuming you've created text outlines as above, and that they're all on a TEXT (OUTLINES) layer)
* Edit menu >> Change >> Pen Width
* Select by layer TEXT (OUTLINES)
* At the Command Line, type in the pen width desired (somewhere between 5 and 10 usually works well, but you may have to experiment with a few pen widths to get the effect you want) and press Enter.
RE: [cc2-l] Straight to smooth, combine and Diorama
Date: 1/18/2001 5:21:54 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
1) Change them to paths, then use Attach Mode (Nearest Endpoint) to make the common border, then change them both to splines.
2) LTP - line to path - the entity you want to change must be a line. LTP will convert the Line to a Path (or a chain of lines). Once you have paths you can use Edit & select Close to make a poly. CMB combines several separate paths into a single path. Sometimes you need to do "S" or "F" (swap or flip) the individual path segments to get the beginning & ending nodes going in the right direction. I can't describe how this looks but if the path looks incorrect (like there's a weird line in it) then try S or F, repeat S or F if necessary until the paths join in the way you expect them to.
Also, remember that with LTP & CMB a left click accepts & a right click cancels (opposite of normal procedure) - you might be right clicking which just cancels everything!
> From: Stéphane Tanguay
> 1) I have two straight poly that share a common border. I want to smooth them but I want them to keep espousing each other path. Any suggestion on the easiest way to do this ? Attach command ?>
> 2) I seem to never be able to get the COMBINE command to work and PATH to POLY seems to react in the same way (well, no reaction at all). What is it that I could do wrong ?>
Re: [cc2-l] Diorama Panel Fills - Bitmaps
Date: 1/18/2001 8:50:31 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>I've been playing around with the bitmaps provided to use as panel fills in CCD, and started using my own by backing up the provided files and renaming my bitmaps with the file names that the CCD panel menu looks for. I was wondering if there is a simpler way to do that. For example, is there a way to get CCD to look at all of the bitmaps in that directory instead of my having to swap them in and out of the predefined list?>
You can create your own CCD bitmap fills by:
* In the Status Bar, click on the "L:" box to bring up the Fill Styles dialog
* Click on the Bitmap Files tab
* Click the "New" button
* Provide a name for the new fill style
* Click on the "Find" button
* Locate your new bitmap and press OK
* Check the "Tile to Fill Extents" radio button
* Press OK in the Fill Styles dialog to close it
* Save the map!
If you open Dioramas.FCT (the Dioramas template), and follow this process, your new bitmap fill style will be available to all new Dioramas. The Dioramas panel settings will automatically pick up your new style.
[cc2-l] How to make a small map from a larger map
Date: 1/21/2001 5:23:10 PM Central Standard Time
From: Linda Kekumu
Following is a basic outline of how to take a section from a larger map to make a smaller map.
1) Draw a box around the area you want to appear on the smaller map, use an unusual color like bright green. Save this map under a different file name. Thaw all & Show all layers unless you specifically don't want them included
2) Measure the dimensions of the box using info/distance - this indicates the approximate the size of the template you will need.
3) Use Edit > Clipboard > Copy or CTRL-C to select all objects that are within the green box area - you will get any objects that are within the box but also some objects that extend beyond the box (this is normal).
4) Choose a point near the middle of the green box for the center of your new map or just right click to accept (0,0).
5) Load the smaller template as the template (see #2 above for the size) (File >> Select Template).
6) Start a new map based on that template (File >> New). Delete the stuff from this map.
7) Paste from clipboard or CTRL-V to place the copy, click near the center of the new map. If you can't see anything or if it looks off center, use Zoom Extends
8) Bring the green box to the front if necessary. (Front >> by color >> pick the bright green color)
9) Change the fill style of everything to Hollow. Change the Splines & Smooth Polys to Paths & Polys (CTS > All > Do It).
9) Break &/or Trim all the entities to the green box edge.
10) Change the green box to black or make a nice border for it.
Re: [cc2-l] Overlaying multiple grids
Date: 1/22/2001 9:38:40 AM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>I have placed a hex grid on the hex/square grid layer at a scale of 1 hex = 5 miles, but now I need to overlay a square grid upon a section of that at a scale of 1 square = 1/4 mile. What is the best way to do this? I would like to keep the hex grid in place if at all possible.>
You can simply use the Draw menu >> Square Grid command, or create a polygon for the new grid and give it a 1/4 mile square grid fill style (either create your own, using the existing square grid fill symbol, or scale an existing one accordingly). I'd suggest, if you want to be able to show the grids independently, that you place the square grid on a different layer - the hex grid is likely on the HEX/SQUARE GRID layer; you can create a new layer (click "Add" in the Layers dialog), say HEX/SQUARE GRID 2, for this purpose. If you use the Square Grid command, the grid will automatically be drawn to the HEX/SQUARE GRID layer, so you'll may have to Change Layer >> select by Prior to get the square grid to the new layer. If you use the polygon method, just create the polygon on the new layer directly.
Re: [cc2-l] Mapping help please
Date: 1/22/2001 9:42:10 AM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>A few weeks back I sent in a question and received a great answer on how to copy the info in a map to a new map (using the clipboard and cutting/pasting). Now I have successfully been able to copy the info from the first map to a much larger template, but I have the problem that the landmass has these flat edges (north and west sides of the original map used the map edge as the end of the landmass). Of course one of the reasons of this exercise is to add on to this landmass.>
>After reading a bit in the manual it seems I need to explode the current landmass and then edit the nodes for the edges? Is there a way to be able to re-draw those coastlines?>
* Draw the additional coastline portions using paths, using the ENDPOINT modifier to start the paths at the ends of the coastline's flat edge.
* BREAK the coastline polygon along it's flat edge (assuming that you've used a polygon, that is - if it's a multipoly, then you'll have to explode that, then use BREAK).
> If you use BREAK, select the polygon, then use the ENDPOINT modifier to select one end of the flat edge, and ENDPOINT modifier again to select the other, you'll avoid any extra processing, like having to trim away the remains of the flat edge.
* Use CMB ("Combine") to join the old coastline to the new bits you've just drawn (type CMB at the Command Line, or choose Edit menu >> Transform >> Combine)
* Click on the EDIT button, select the combined path, and check the "Closed" button to convert your newly joined up paths into a polygon.
* Re-multipoly if necessary.
Re: [cc2-l]
Date: 1/25/2001 11:32:16 PM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>Is it possible to "search and replace" one symbol for another?
Symbols menu >> Replace
Click on the symbol you wish to replace, then
Click on the symbol you wish to replace it with
Re: [cc2-l] Hex Mapping
Date: 1/28/2001 7:15:34 AM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>I was wondering if anyone had a nice set of symbols for making hex maps.
The easiest way to create hex maps is to use Draw >> Hex Grid to get the grid down, then place the symbols you wish in the centre of the hexes. The standard CC2 symbol libraries work just fine, but I have created a "structures" symbol set based on the old Mystara maps, if anyone's interested in them.
To get background colours in, switch Attach mode on, using End Point, then trace around the edge of the hex field you wish to fill in. Using Attach mode with a drawn hex grid (rather than a hex grid created using a fill style) is the easiest way I've found of doing this.
Because a drawn hex grid contains more entities than a fill-style hex grid, you might want to delete the old hex grid and replace it with a fill-style one once the map has been completed. This'll cut down on file size, redraw speed, etc.
Re: [cc2-l] Hide / Show Layers problem
Date: 2/3/2001 10:33:17 AM Central Standard Time
From: Ian R Malcomson
>I was wondering if any of you clever chaps and chapesses out there could help me with a problem. Is there a text equivalent command for hiding layers? I'll give you the reason why I ask; I'm creating a dungeon (using the excellent new Room & Corridor commands) and have some secret areas accessed via (wait for it...) secret doors! I put the doors in using the wall cutting symbols for neatness and have created a
layer called 'Walls Replace' which has the missing pieces of wall cut from the doorways. This allows me to hide the secret areas completely. What I'd like to do is create a hotspot button which, when pressed, hides the Secret Layer and UNhides the 'Walls Replace' layer and vice versa, but I can't seem to find any way of doing this. >
To create a hotspot that hides the secret layer:
* Select Info >> Link With Map
* Draw the map link in
* Click on the EDIT icon, and select the link
* Replace the LOADM.....; with HIDE SECRET; (semicolons important!)
To create a hotspot that shows the walls replace layer:
* Create a link as above
* Use the EDIT icon to change the link to SHOW WALLS REPLACE;
To create a hotspot that does both:
* Create the link
* Use EDIT to replace the link with HIDE SECRET;SHOW WALLS REPLACE;
From: Matthew Lynn
HIDE Wall Replace
SHOW Wall Replace
Re: [cc2-l] A few questions
Date: 2/12/2001 10:47:07 AM Central Standard Time
From: John Csaky
> 1. When using a command such as Smooth Path, is there any way to undo the last node that I placed? For example, if I'm drawing a long river with lots of sharp twists and turns, and I accidentally click on the wrong spot, can I undo just that node and then keep going? I know I can stop by right clicking, delete the misplaced node, then continue with a new Smooth Path, but that seems like a lot of work.
What I usually do is just continue placing the Nodes where I wanted them. When I get done with the Spline, I just go back, and using the Delete Node Command, remove the extra node. Sometimes this will require you to just move the Node or when you are done you find you need to add a node. All three are buttons on the standard Left Icon Bars.
> 2. Speaking of nodes, I would love to be able to see the nodes before I go editing them. Right now, I just click randomly on the entity, hoping to "catch" the right node with my clicks. How can I select an entity and view all the nodes that entity contains?>
CTRL F turns the Frames on allowing you to see the nodes. NOTE: I find that using the Move Node (Dynamic <Node> Edit) works better to fine tune.
> 3. Why is it that when trying to attach one entity to another using the "ON" modifier as I'm drawing the entity (say, hooking a river onto the coastline), it usually works fine, but sometimes overshoots the second entity by some amount? Is this just a bug?
You need to click the Modifier before EACH Node placement. If you are trying to trace an entity, Copy to Layer is a better solution, then just use the Trims to edit the Copy to the portion you are trying to trace.
>
> 4. Can I match text to a curved line? How?
ATTC Text along a Curve macro. Why is it ATTC (Simon)?
NOTE: If you are using a lot of SPLINE it is recommended that you turn off the Smoothing before using any of the Trim Commands on a Spline. You can turn it back on when you are done. (Edit Properties Command)
Re: Undoing poly nodes in mid-command (was: A few questions)
Date: 2/13/2001 4:10:30 AM Central Standard Time
From: Ralf Schemmann
Ian R Malcomson schrieb:
> It is, but there is no real way to undo a point placed mid-command. I'd suggest converting the smooth path to a standard path before removing the misplaced node, however, and then continuing the river using a standard path. That way, you can use the Combine command to join the two paths together to form a single river, which you can then convert to a smooth path (use the EDIT icon, and select "None" or the type of smoothing you want from the drop-down list that command provides).
The new enhanced poly and path (EPOLY and EPATH) commands introduced with the Harn Mapping kit allow removing nodes in mid-command. Simply type "d" and the last (node) is undone (you can do that
repeatedly).